A bathroom remodel is a great way to add value to your home but there are some steps that you will want to take to make sure everything goes smoothly. The first question you need to ask when doing a bathroom remodel is if you are going to take this on yourself (DIY), or are you going to hire a professional? In this post we are going to concentrate on hiring a professional and three main categories involved in the renovation process.

The Contractor

It goes without saying but the most critical part about your bathroom remodel is hiring the right contractor to complete the work. The big questions are how do you know who to hire and who to trust. There are a few simple questions you can ask. Are they licensed to work in your state?

You want to ask for a copy and if possible, verify the license number. If you live on a state line, don’t just assume that the contractor is licensed in both states.

Do they have insurance?

This should be a very simple item for a reputable contractor to show proof of. If they do not have insurance, this can be a red flag. If something happens during the remodel, you might be liable for any damages or injuries.

How Did You Hear About Them?

Word of mouth is almost always going to be the best test. Do you know anyone who they have completed a project for? How did that project go? Any surprises? Reviews can be helpful but unfortunately, we live in a day and age where reviews are easy to manipulate, both good and bad.

The Project

Once you have decided on a contractor for the bathroom remodel, you will want to work with them on expectations for how the renovation will go. These include:

Completion Date

When do they expect the project to be done. This will vary depending on how big or small a renovation you are doing. Some projects can be completed in a day. Others may take a week. An experienced professional should be able to walk you through what is involved in the project and give you a timeframe for completion. There is always a possibility for unexpected challenges to arise during the project that might be out of their control, but for the most part they should be able to provide a fairly accurate completion date. This is also a good time to ask about the livability of the home during the renovation. Will you be able to stay in the home or do you need to be out? Are you okay with 4 people coming into your home at 7am each morning and making all kinds of noise? Are there any dangers to you being in the home during construction? In general, if you are only concentrating on one bathroom and you have another one, you can stay in your home but you might want to make other arrangements. Having a good timeline can really help.

Unexpected Delays During a Bathroom Remodel

While we all want projects to go perfectly, they sometimes don’t. It is just a part of life. Asking your contractor how they handle delays can help expectations. Do they have time built into the project? Will they leave your project for another one if there are delays? Delays can be caused by both seen and unforeseen issues. If you project is scheduled the same day a category 5 hurricane is going to hit your area, there isn’t much your contractor can do and would classify as an unforeseen delay. If you are using custom made materials (tiles, vanities and so forth) there is a higher possibility that there might be delays in those materials coming in. That would classify as a foreseen delay, one that you hope goes as planned but should not be surprised if there is a delay in getting them.

Unexpected Issues During a Bathroom Remodel

This is the hardest one to plan for and it can cause both financial strain as well as adding to the timeline. During a bathroom remodel, unexpected issues are a common – especially ones that involve areas where water is present. You can never be 100% certain what you are going to find behind old tiles, tubs, vanities and so forth. Have the floor boards been compromised? Is there black mold growing? Are there any plumbing, electrical or structural issues that need to be dealt with? Using a local contractor can help you navigate common issues in your area and help to predict what they might find. Asking your contractor if they have a contingency plan for what might arise can help lessen surprises during the project.

The Materials

You now have a contractor and have gone over what to expect with the project. Something that can be overlooked are the materials that will be used. Generally, you will sit down with the contractor and/or designer to walk through all aspects of the project. You will choose tiles, countertops, faucets, a tub, paint color and so forth. Here is where you can ask questions about availability. Asking if a material will need to be custom ordered or if it is a stocked item at their supply house can reduce the chances the project will be delayed. We are not saying you should always use stocked items, just know that you might need to build in a little extra time if you are ordering custom made items. An overlooked item in bathroom renovations can be the exhaust fan and it is one of the most critical items. Too often the exhaust fan is an afterthought and, in some areas, not even installed. You are probably paying thousands of dollars for your renovation so you will want to protect it from mold, mildew, smells and other usage related issues. Too often we see contractors installing low-cost fans just to meet the requirement. No always, but it is common. Being an advocate for yourself can go a long way. It is beneficial to have a respectful conversation with your contractor to ensure the exhaust fan is large enough to handle the bathroom usage, quite enough that it will not be distracting, is energy efficient and has the functions (light, humidity sensor, heat…) that you require. Having this conversation upfront can ensure the experience is a good one. In actuality the contractor will be happy to have them with you as the last thing they want to have to do is come back because the exhaust fan of all things is not up to your standards.

Summary

Hiring the right contractor who is willing to work with you through the entire renovation process from setting a timeline to choosing materials will reduce surprises during the project and make for an enjoyable experience and a beautiful bathroom. For more information on how to choose a bathroom exhaust fan, read through Air King’s blog post on the subject. For more information about Air King bathroom exhaust fans, visit airkinglimited.com.

Is a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Upgrade Worth It?

As a manufacturer of ventilation products, you might expect us to automatically say “yes” to a bathroom exhaust fan upgrade. But before we jump to conclusions, let’s explore why upgrading your bathroom exhaust fan could be a smart move—and when it might not be necessary.

Why Consider Upgrading Your Bathroom Exhaust Fan?

There are typically two main reasons to upgrade:

1. Your current exhaust fan has stopped working.
2. Your current fan is underperforming—too loud, too weak, or just outdated.

Let’s take a closer look at both scenarios.

Your Exhaust Fan No Longer Works

If your existing fan is no longer operational, this is a great opportunity to decide whether a simple replacement is enough—or if it’s time to upgrade.

Here are some questions to ask:

Did the old fan meet your needs?

If so, a one-to-one replacement might do the trick.

Is an upgrade worth the cost?

Sometimes, for just a bit more, you can get a fan that’s quieter, more energy efficient, or has additional features.

Will installation require changes?

Upgrading might mean enlarging or reducing the size of the opening in the ceiling or wall. Consider whether you're comfortable with DIY or if hiring a professional makes more sense. Labor for replacing a fan typically runs between $250–$400, depending on complexity—not including the cost of the fan itself.

Your Fan Isn't Performing Like It Should

Maybe your fan is technically working, but it’s not working well. Here’s how to diagnose and decide:

Noise Level

If your fan sounds like a jet engine, it may be time for a quieter model. Fan noise is measured in sones:

0.5 sone or lower – Nearly silent
1.0–2.0 sones – Quiet operation
3.0–4.0 sones – Noticeable, like a conversation
4.0+ sones – Loud and potentially disruptive

Ventilation Power

If your mirror constantly fogs up or you're seeing mold or mildew, chances are your current fan isn’t providing enough airflow. Fan strength is measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). A general rule of thumb is 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom space. So, a 10' x 10' bathroom needs at least a 100 CFM fan. But that’s just a starting point. You may need more power (up to 20% more) depending on:

• How frequently the shower is used (how many people utilize it)
• Water temperature (more steam = more ventilation needed)
• Local humidity levels

A good solution to ensure proper ventilation is a humidity-sensing fan, which turns on and off automatically based on the room’s humidity.

Energy Efficiency

Most bathroom fans don’t consume a lot of power, so energy savings alone may not justify an upgrade. But if you're replacing the fan anyway, it’s smart to look for ENERGY STAR®-certified models, which offer efficient performance with lower long-term energy use.

So, Is a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Upgrade Worth It?

In many cases, yes. Whether your current fan has stopped operating, is too loud, or is just not cutting it in terms of ventilation, an upgrading can provide:

• A quieter, more comfortable bathroom
• Better protection against mold and mildew
• Smarter energy use and potentially lower bills
• A more automated and convenient user experience

Now that you have all the information, it might be the perfect time to go beyond a basic replacement. To learn more about Air King exhaust fans, visit airkinglimited.com. Also read through our other blog posts on CFM and sones.

Most homes across North America have at least one exhaust fan and eventually it will need to be replaced which begs the question – should I upgrade the exhaust fan? When we say upgrade the exhaust fan, we are referring to replacing it with a model that might be quieter, have more airflow or features like a humidity sensor. There are a few considerations when upgrading.

Is my old fan no longer working?

This is probably the most common reason why exhaust fans are replaced. In this case you have basically two options – replace it with the exact or similar model or upgrade it to a better model. A few simple questions can direct you to the decision that is best for you:

Did you have any issues with mold, mildew or the steam from showers clearing fast enough? If the answer is no, then you probably have the right amount of airflow. This is measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). If not, this is a good time to upgrade the amount of airflow.

Was the current fan too loud? Sound in exhaust fans is measured in Sones. One sone is about the sound a refrigerator makes, two sones is twice that and so on. A fan that is at 0.3 sones is almost silent.

Do you have a light or do you want to add one? If the room is dark and you want to add lighting, this would be an opportunity to add a fan/light combination. Depending on how you want it to function (light working independent of the exhaust fan or not), this might require additional wires to be run to the fan.

Would the room benefit from having a humidity sensor? A humidity sensor either as a wall control or integrated into the fan is very helpful in rooms that always seem to struggle with moisture. The humidity sensor will turn the fan on or off depending on the humidity level of the room. This is really helpful is situations where the fan doesn’t get turned on or is not left on for the proper amount of time. A humidity sensor automates that process.

Is my current fan not effective?

Unfortunately, when it comes to the exhaust fans in a home, builders will cut corners a bit and install the least expensive model on the market. While for the most part they are still okay, there is a lot of room for improvement. You might look to upgrade the exhaust fan if the fan is not properly clearing the room of moisture or odors, the fan is too loud, or something is not mechanically working with it. While replacing a fan has its challenges, for the most part it is something that an average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish in a coupe of hours. A lot will depend on if you can access the fan from above (attic), the physical size of the fan and if the old fan’s ducting matches the new one. When deciding to upgrade, you can use the same criteria discussed in the section above.

Do I need to add an exhaust fan?

You might run into a situation where an exhaust fan wasn’t installed. In years past the building code only required that a window be the bathroom. The theory was that if you open the window, it provided the airflow to clear the room of moisture and odors. While there is some truth to that, thankfully we have evolved to understand that a mechanical solution (exhaust fan) is a much better and more controlled way to provide ventilation. Getting back to the question of if you don’t have an exhaust fan installed, this is a great opportunity to make sure you choose one that will fit your needs. Once again, you can use the same criteria as was outlined in the “Is my old fan no longer working?” section to ensure you make the right choice.

Determining if you should upgrade the exhaust fan of your home does not need to be a difficult one. Hopefully the information provide in this post will help you through the process. To learn more about Air King’s exhaust fan solutions and upgrade options visit airkinglimited.com

Anatomy of Exhaust Fans

Exhaust fans play a pivotal roll in maintaining the indoor air quality of our homes. Utilizing them decreases contaminates, reduces moisture and makes our homes healthier to live in. So how do exhaust fans work?

Having an understanding of how exhaust fans or as they are sometimes called – bath fans work is an important component to making sure they are utilized correctly. The basic principle of an exhaust fan is to take the “bad” air inside your living space and move it (exhaust it) out. That air is then replaced with fresh air. It is a fairly simple concept.

The exhaust fan’s main component is a blower of some type. Lower end units will utilize a fan blade that looks similar to a typical portable fan. Higher end units will utilize a blower wheel or as some people refer to it, a squirrel cage. Blower wheels generally are able to produce more ventilation at a quieter sound level. In either case the wheel or blades turn and generate airflow that is directed through the fan’s duct collar.

The next part of the exhaust fan is the duct collar. Exhaust fans must be ducted to the outdoors and run through ducting in the home to either a wall cap or a roof cap. While these components are not necessarily part of the fan, they are integral components that are required. The duct collar of the fan is connected to the ducting from the home. Ducting can range from 3 inches to 6 inches in typical residential homes. More and more new construction is moving to 6 inch ducting as it provides better airflow with less resistance. It is important to match the ducting size to the size of the exhaust fan. For instance if you have 4 inch ducting but have a 6 inch ducted exhaust fan you will need to reduce the ducting down to fit. This will make the fan work harder, reduce the airflow and increase the sound level.

A second part of the duct collar is the backdraft damper. This is a flap that closes to prevent drafts from coming back into the home. Backdraft dampers are usually either gravity closing or spring loaded. The way they work is when the fan is operating and blowing air out of the collar the force of the air opens the damper. Once the unit is shut off the damper will either “fall” down on gravity type dampers or close with spring-loaded dampers, sealing off the ducting.

The next component of an exhaust fan is the housing. The housing holds everything together and is what is installed into the ceiling. Housings come in many different sizes and are installed in different ways. Common installations include hanger bars that slide into a channel on the housing and then extend out to connect to the ceiling joists. A second mounting type is mounting tabs. These are tabs on the housing that install directly to the ceiling joist. Other mounting types are ones such as with the Air King BFQ series that have a snap-in bracket.

So far all the components we discussed are ones you won’t see once the fan is installed. The one that you will see is the grill. Like housings, grills come in all different sizes and shapes. The grill has a few functions. First is to cover up and protect all the inter workings of the fan. Second is to be aesthetically pleasing - no one wants an ugly hole in their ceiling. Lastly the grill provides a balance of décor and function as it needs to be able to allow enough air to come into the fan without restricting that air.

These are the main components of an exhaust fan. In addition some fans will have extra features like a light, heater function, humidity sensor, motion sensor and more. For more information about the exhaust fans available through Air King visit airkinglimited.com.

Is the Code Enough? Part 1

There is a commonly used four-letter word in the building industry that typically elicits a range of emotions – code. Building codes are good things. They ensure our homes are built to a standard that will keep us safe and provide a good living environment. For the most part, just using common sense and proper building techniques will meet a lot of the building codes. But, are the codes good enough? Over the course of the next few blogs we are going to take a look at a few specific areas of the home and some of the general ventilation building codes that apply to them.

At the time of this blog, there is a large company using the slogan “just okay is not okay”. We can have this same approach when it comes to code compliance. In general building codes are a minimum standard but sometime we should be looking closer at what that minimum means for our standard of living. Let's take a look at typical exhaust fans. There are a lot of codes across the country in regards to bathroom ventilation. Some codes just say you need a window in the bathroom and you are good. If this is the code in your area, we would highly recommend exceeding the code. In earlier blogs we have gone into detail as to why you need an exhaust fan in your bathroom so we are not going to say much in this blog. Most of the codes will call for an exhaust fan to be installed in the bathroom. This is a good thing, sort of. Something is better than nothing, but it is conceivable that you can meet code but not be effectively ventilating your bathroom.

Here is the scenario. You have a 10ft. x 10ft. bathroom. That is a total of 100 square feet. The minimum sized exhaust fan you will need is 100 CFM (cubic feet per minute). That should meet your building codes, but will it be effective? If you live alone in a mild climate and take short showers, it probably will be very effective. If there are 4 people sharing the same bathroom, who all take hot showers, 100 CFM might not get the job done. Going up an extra 10-50 CFM could be the difference between effectively removing the moisture from the bathroom or not.

Most people do not spend time thinking about their exhaust fan (it’s okay, we don’t take it personally). The fact of the matter is that your exhaust fan is something that is or should be used on a daily basis so it stands to reason it should be effective. Before we go any further we will come right out and say it – yes, generally exceeding the minimum requirements will mean a more expensive exhaust fan. Let's put that into context however. Let's say you need to spend an extra $50 to upgrade your exhaust fan if you are building a new home. The average cost of a new home in 2019 was around $300,000 (varies depending on what source you use). When you add $50 or even $100 to a $300,000 home, it seems like a fairly easy choice.

Okay, what do you get for that extra $50 to $100? We already talked about more effective ventilation depending on your living style but there is also a comfort level to it. Upgrading your ventilation usually includes lowering the sound level and even the power consumption. Meeting the minimum code might include a fan that you will definitely hear running. Exceeding the code opens up options for fans that you can barely hear running.

Building codes are in place to ensure safety and health and we are very thankful that we have men and women working very hard to keep up with them and pushing the industry forward. The next time you hear the phrase “meets code” just stop and think  - is meeting the code all I really want to do? For more information about Air King exhaust fans visit www.airkinglimited.com.

Increase the Effectiveness of Your Exhaust Fan

If you are looking to renovate a bathroom or are building a new one, something that can often get overlooked is the exhaust fan placement. While the shiny fixtures and fancy tiles can and probably should get most of the attention, taking a few minutes to determine the best place to install an exhaust fan will have years of benefits – maybe even longer than the shiny things.

First, make sure an exhaust fan is being installed. We have spent plenty of time in our past blogs exploring the benefits of utilizing an exhaust fan and the dangers of not having one. It is critical that one is installed. Having a fan anywhere in the bathroom is miles better than not having one, but we want to concentrate on maximizing its effectiveness.

It sounds simple, but you want to locate the exhaust fan as close to the source of the most contaminates as possible. When we talk about contaminates in a bathroom setting, the biggest one is moisture. While odors are also a concern, moisture is what will cause the most damage if not properly mitigated. With this in mind, the best place for an exhaust fan is generally going to be inside the shower or right over the tub. This puts the exhaust right at the source.

Great – that was easy now we can get back to the shiny things and the fancy tiles. Well not so fast. In order for the exhaust fan to be installed inside a shower or over a tub, it has to be approved for that use. Not all exhaust fans are – especially if you have one that has a heater function to it. You want to make sure the fan says “UL approved for installation over a tub or shower” or “certified for wet locations”. If it is not and water hits the fan, it could cause a short or worse. If you have a fan that is not approved for wet locations, it can still be used, but not directly over the tub or shower. In this case, you want to place the fan as close to the shower as possible so it catches as much of the moisture coming out from the shower as it can. The further away from the shower, the less effective it will be. At that point, you will need to look at using a fan that is actually over powered for the room, which can cause other issues.

So far we have looked at a “typical” bathroom. In some cases, the shower and the toilet are separated – especially in larger bathrooms. In this situation, you might want to look at installing two exhaust fans. A smaller one to handle the toilet and a larger one to handle the moisture. This allows you to place exhaust fans at the two main sources of contaminates in the bathroom and control them independently.

For more information or to see the line of Air King bathroom exhaust fans, visit www.airkinglimited.com

The 50 CFM Exhaust Fan Dilemma

We will admit it; most people are not staying up late at night thinking about their exhaust fans. For most homeowners, it is that thing in the bathroom that makes a lot of noise. The mindset is because it is making noise; it must be working – right.

Unfortunately, that might not be the case. The most popular fan size sold is a builder grade 50 CFM exhaust fan. These models are typically low cost which makes them attractive but they are loud and might not be doing the job they are intended for. Some of the issues come from the fact that they are installed in rooms that are bigger than their intended use. In an ideal situation (which never exists) a 50 CFM fan is good for a room about 50 square feet. In a real-world setting, it is probably closer to being able to handle a room between 35 and 40 square feet. If you have one of these installed in your bathroom, you probably notice things like the mirrors fog over when you shower and mildew seems to build up quickly. The good news is there are a few things that you can do. These vary from inexpensive to a bit of an investment.

1. Get on top of the situation. If you are buying a new construction home, talk to the builder about what they are installing. You might need to push a little, but it will be worth it. Sometimes you will hear things like “we put this fan in all our homes” or “we’ve been using this one for years”. That might be true but a little upfront work will save you money and headaches later. Many builders are also realizing that the old standby is not getting the job done and are already upgrading the exhaust fans. Also, make sure they are using a minimum of 4 inch ducting – 6 inch is even better and they are sizing the fan correctly. It is okay to oversize the fan a little. When we talk about a fan being able to handle a room X square feet – that is a minimum, not the maximum size.
2. Replace the existing one. Replacing an exhaust fan is a somewhat easy DIY project as long as you can access it from the attic. One issue that typically happens is a mismatched duct size. Most builder grade 50 CFM exhaust fans use 3 inch ducting. You will want to change that to 4 inch at a minimum. You can install a 4 inch to 3 inch reducer but that will decrease the airflow of the unit and cause the sound level to be higher. Definitely better to change the ducting if you can. If you are not sure about doing it yourself, licensed electricians or handyman can typically do this in an hour or two. To have a properly sized and functioning exhaust fan it will be worth the costs.
3. Let it run. If replacing the fan is not an option, extending the run time of the fan is the next best thing. Instead of turning the fan off as soon as you are done in the bathroom, allow it to run. The run time will be dependent on a bunch of factors. It might need to run for 20 to 60 minutes or more. Remembering to come back and turn it off might not be a practical solution. Installing a timer switch can be a good solution. An even better one is to install a wall mounted humidity sensor like the Air King DH55. These replace the wall switch and can usually be installed very easily (again, if you are not sure how to do this, contact a licensed electrician). It is also recommended you leave the bathroom door open to allow as much air exchange as possible to help reduce the humidity.

To learn more about Air King vast selection of exhaust fans and Indoor Air Quality Ventilation Systems, visit www.airkinglimited.com

What Has Happen to the Air We Breath?

There is a lot of talk lately about Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). You may have already read some of our other IAQ posts, but what has changed that it is getting even more attention? Why wasn’t this as important 5 years, 10 year, 30 years ago? That is a great question and one that has many answers.

They Don’t Build Them Like They Used To. Most of the time this is a negative for the newer item. That’s not the case here. Newer houses are constructed to a much tighter building standard that requires the house to be better insulated and more energy efficient. The biggest thing a homeowner will notice is that there are much less drafts. Here’s where it gets tricky. Less drafts are great from a comfort and efficiency standpoint but not good from an IAQ standpoint. The drafts you feel are outside air coming into the home and by default exchanging the stale air inside the home. Tighter homes do not have a natural way of exchanging the air, causing it to stagnate. Homeowners need to open windows or doors to accomplish this (not a great plan for those living in areas where it is 100 degrees outside or on the other end of the spectrum, minus 10).

Knowledge. We are getting smarter. Studies have found that the air inside our home can be up to 5 times more polluted than the outside air – yikes! That is from normal living. We have now learned that things like cooking, showering (creating mold and mildew if not properly ventilated), using cleaning chemicals or air fresheners and so forth are major contributors to bad IAQ. Just think how dusty your home gets and now realize that dust comes from somewhere and how much of that you have breathed in. We then go back to the first point and with a tighter home, there is even less chance for these pollutants to escape.

The Easy Factor. As we mentioned, a major contributor to bad IAQ are all the chemical products we use inside our homes. They are convenient and generally do the job. Included in these are air fresheners. There are two inherit issues with them. First is they are a chemical solution and second, why do you need them in the first place? Think of how much could be avoided by just having a properly ventilated home. Let something cook a little too long on the stove – a good range hood will take care of that. Kids clothing stinking up the house – a good exhaust fan plus fresh air coming into the home will take care of that. That spicy chili from last night causing an extended stay in the bathroom – rather then emptying a can of air freshener, a good exhaust fan will take care of that.

So are we all doomed? Nope, there is hope and it is actually an easy solution. As mentioned earlier, a properly ventilated home increase the IAQ dramatically – using bath fans, range hoods and other ventilation fans. That takes care of getting the bad air out of the home but you also want to bring fresh air into the home. When keeping a window or door open is not an option, a mechanical solution might be the answer. A product like the Air King QFAM provides a flow of filtered air into the home and can be set to account for humidity levels and temperature of the air coming in. Products like the QFAM can be installed in a non-intrusive location of the home and provide the fresh air that you need.

To learn more about IAQ and Air King’s solutions, visit www.airkinglimited.com

Ventilation Diagnostic – 5 Ways to Check Your Bathroom Exhaust Fan

The ventilation of your home is a very important component of proper Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). If it is not working properly or is ineffective, it can lead to larger issues. Here are 5 ways you can insure your exhaust fans are operating properly:

1.    Sizing – A common error made when choosing an exhaust fan is the size or how much air does it move. This is measured in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM). A quick way to see if you have the right amount is to measure the length and width of your bathroom and times those numbers together. For instance a 10 foot by 10 foot bathroom is 100 square feet. The general rule is a minimum of 1 CFM per square foot. In our example you will need at least a 100 CFM exhaust fan. Typically there is a sticker inside your fan that lists the CFM. If not and you can locate the model number of the fan, you can use a directory such as HVI (hvi.org) to look-up the airflow. If the airflow of the fan is less than what is needed, you might want to consider replacing the unit. Note: there are other factors such as duct length, height of ceilings and more that can contribute to the airflow of the unit. For our purposes we are just concentrating on some simple ways to check.

2.    Obstructions – Once you have determined that the airflow of you fan is what it should be the next item to look at is obstructions. Depending on where your fan is exhausting to will determine how easy this is to do. First do a visual test. Do you see any debris in or around the wall or roof vent? Common obstructions are items like birds nests. If your vent has louvers, make sure they are working and are not frozen shut. CAUTION: if you need to use a ladder or climb on your roof, make sure to adhere to all safety measures to avoid injury.

3.    Cleaning – After checking for obstructions outside, it is now time to check inside in the form of dirt and debris build-up in the fan. The performance of your fan can be reduced if it is not properly maintained. If there is a build up of dirt or debris on the fan blades/blower you are probably not getting the full airflow. The good news is this is an easy fix. Follow the cleaning instructions in the user manual that came with your fan (or access them through the manufacturers website). Make sure to follow all safety precautions including turning off the power supply to the fan before starting.

4.    Living Test – We sometimes think we have to have some expensive piece of equipment or call an expert in to diagnose things. That is not the case with bathroom exhaust fans. There is a very simple test we will call the living test. Is your bathroom fan working the way you want it to? After you get out of the shower is the room full of steam for what seems an eternity? Does mold and mildew grow faster than you can clean it? These are some common signs that your fan might not have enough airflow to do the job. As listed above, you can try and see if it is an obstruction or it needs cleaning but you might want to consider increasing the airflow by replacing the unit. Even if you determine that the airflow of the fan matches the size of the room, different factors can be at play that might require a larger CFM fan.

5.    Function – When we talk about function, we are talking about two factors – mechanical and user. For mechanical, is the fan physically working? When you turn the fan on, does it operate? I think it goes without saying that if the fan is not operating, it either needs to be repaired or replaced. This might sound like a duh moment but we are always amazed how many times replacing an exhaust fan seems to be a secondary project. The second factor is the user. How many times have you used a bathroom without turning the fan on? We are not judging and forgiveness is available. The main reason people give for not using a bathroom exhaust fan is the sound. Even if the right sized exhaust fan is installed, if it isn’t turned on because of the sound level, then it is as if there is no exhaust fan there at all. There are two ways to solve for that issue. One would be to replace it with a quieter model. Exhaust fans have come a long way and now, there are many models that operate at an almost silent level. A second way is to install either a humidity or occupancy sensor that will automatically turn the fan on and off taking control out of the hands of the occupants. That won’t solve the sound issue, but it will ensure the fan is operating.

To learn more about ventilation, available exhaust fans and Indoor Air Quality, visit the Air King site at www.airkinglimited.com