Most homes across North America have at least one exhaust fan and eventually it will need to be replaced which begs the question – should I upgrade the exhaust fan? When we say upgrade the exhaust fan, we are referring to replacing it with a model that might be quieter, have more airflow or features like a humidity sensor. There are a few considerations when upgrading.

Is my old fan no longer working?

This is probably the most common reason why exhaust fans are replaced. In this case you have basically two options – replace it with the exact or similar model or upgrade it to a better model. A few simple questions can direct you to the decision that is best for you:

Did you have any issues with mold, mildew or the steam from showers clearing fast enough? If the answer is no, then you probably have the right amount of airflow. This is measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). If not, this is a good time to upgrade the amount of airflow.

Was the current fan too loud? Sound in exhaust fans is measured in Sones. One sone is about the sound a refrigerator makes, two sones is twice that and so on. A fan that is at 0.3 sones is almost silent.

Do you have a light or do you want to add one? If the room is dark and you want to add lighting, this would be an opportunity to add a fan/light combination. Depending on how you want it to function (light working independent of the exhaust fan or not), this might require additional wires to be run to the fan.

Would the room benefit from having a humidity sensor? A humidity sensor either as a wall control or integrated into the fan is very helpful in rooms that always seem to struggle with moisture. The humidity sensor will turn the fan on or off depending on the humidity level of the room. This is really helpful is situations where the fan doesn’t get turned on or is not left on for the proper amount of time. A humidity sensor automates that process.

Is my current fan not effective?

Unfortunately, when it comes to the exhaust fans in a home, builders will cut corners a bit and install the least expensive model on the market. While for the most part they are still okay, there is a lot of room for improvement. You might look to upgrade the exhaust fan if the fan is not properly clearing the room of moisture or odors, the fan is too loud, or something is not mechanically working with it. While replacing a fan has its challenges, for the most part it is something that an average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish in a coupe of hours. A lot will depend on if you can access the fan from above (attic), the physical size of the fan and if the old fan’s ducting matches the new one. When deciding to upgrade, you can use the same criteria discussed in the section above.

Do I need to add an exhaust fan?

You might run into a situation where an exhaust fan wasn’t installed. In years past the building code only required that a window be the bathroom. The theory was that if you open the window, it provided the airflow to clear the room of moisture and odors. While there is some truth to that, thankfully we have evolved to understand that a mechanical solution (exhaust fan) is a much better and more controlled way to provide ventilation. Getting back to the question of if you don’t have an exhaust fan installed, this is a great opportunity to make sure you choose one that will fit your needs. Once again, you can use the same criteria as was outlined in the “Is my old fan no longer working?” section to ensure you make the right choice.

Determining if you should upgrade the exhaust fan of your home does not need to be a difficult one. Hopefully the information provide in this post will help you through the process. To learn more about Air King’s exhaust fan solutions and upgrade options visit airkinglimited.com

Choosing an Exhaust Fan With or Without a Light

When choosing an exhaust fan for your home, there are many features you need to consider – what sound level, do I want an item like a humidity sensor, how much airflow do I need and so on. One of the first decisions is typically if you need a light or not. Sometimes it is an easy one such as if the fan will be used in a location where a light is not needed. This is typically the case when it is used as a continuous running fan to comply with building codes outline by ASHRAE 62.2. Other times however it is not as simple.

In rooms that either need a light or would benefit from additional lighting you basically have two options. Utilize a combination exhaust fan with light or install a secondary light source. While this might seem like a simple decision, and for certain installations it is, there are a few considerations to take into account.

Light Location

In many installations the exhaust fan is located to maximize the ventilation of the room. That can mean installing it in the shower enclosure or maybe directly over a toilet. In some cases, the best location for the lighting and the ventilation might be the same but in other installations it might not be. For instance, if the room needs more ventilation over a toilet but the lighting is needed more over the sink, then it might be better to utilize a fan without a light and install a separate light over the sink.

Cost Consideration

When choosing an exhaust fan, cost is probably a top factor. A fan light combination is going to cost more than an equivalent model that does not have a light. There are also some other costs associated with a fan light combination. If the fan and light will be wired together (meaning anytime the fan is on the light is also on), the wiring will be the same as a fan without a light. However, if you are going to install the unit so the light and exhaust fan operate separately, there are additional costs for the extra wiring and you will typically need an upgraded switch (at least a two function from a one function switch). Before anyone starts to yell – yes there are additional costs to installing a separate light in the room as well including the fixture as well as the wiring. What you need to take into consideration is how much more does the fan with light cost in relationship to how much more a light fixture will cost. In cases where there are already a bunch of other lights being installed, adding one more might not be that much. In cases (such as a powder room) that might only need the light from the exhaust fan, it might not be cost effective to have a separate light installed.

The Aesthetics

How a fan looks can play a big factor in the decision-making process. In general, a fan with a light will need to be a bit larger and have more of a presence in the room where a fan without a light will have a lower profile. In some cases, such as a decorative fan light combination, it is a design feature of the room. In other cases, it might not fit in with the aesthetics of the room.

The Lighting

Almost all exhaust fans with light are going to have some type of lens cover on them. This is to protect the lights from having water spray up onto them – especially if they are used in a shower stall. With the lighting needing to be protected it can diminish how much light the fixture is actually giving off and how the light is dispersed throughout the room. Recessed lighting is going to be more focused and “bright” in one area. Lighting with a lens cover is going to be more spread out but might not be as bright. Which one to choose is dependent on how you are looking to light the space.

Hopefully this article will help you when choosing an exhaust fan and if you want to utilize one with or without a light feature. For more information about Air King exhaust fans – with and without lighting, visit airkinglimiited.com.

Lets Celebrate ENERGY STAR® Day

Each October manufactures and consumers across the county join together to celebrate ENERGY STAR® day. While not a national holiday – yet, it provides a vehicle for the exchange of energy and money saving tips as well as promotion of activities that can help us work toward a greener world. The first ENERGY STAR day was celebrated in 2012 and has continued to grow in both size and involvement. ENERGY STAR uses the day to promote energy savings as well as recognizing organizations that have partnered with them to reduce energy usage using the tagline “Save Today, Save Tomorrow, Save for Good”. Activities for the day include increase interactions on many of the current Social Media outlets with both ENERGY STAR as well as manufacturers leveraging large followings. In addition many manufacturing partners also coordinate celebrations within their own organizations.

Did you know there are energy rebates available for purchasing certified products? Rebates are available on a federal level as well as a local level, through your utility provider. Products eligible for rebates include select appliances, windows/doors, insulation, Televisions, HVAC products, lighting, water heaters, ventilation fans and much more. To learn more about rebates that you might qualify for visit the ENERGY STAR rebate finder page by clicking here.

Air King has enjoyed a long partnership with ENERGY STAR and was excited to once again celebrate the day with team members at the main manufacturing facility in West Chester, Pennsylvania. Celebrations include training sessions on how to be more energy efficient at work as well as at home, the annual handing out of high efficiency LED light bulbs and of course cake.

To learn more about Air King and energy savings, visit the ENERGY STAR section under the learning menu on the Air King website at airkinglimited.com. Also be sure to follow Air King on social media – X, Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and LinkedIn.

Do I need a Continuously Operating Exhaust Fan?

You might be getting ready to buy your first home, your dream home or even renovating your current home and the builder starts talking about a continuously operating exhaust fan. Your first reaction might be – what’s that? You’re not alone. For many homeowners exhaust fans are something that just comes with the house and not much thought is given to them. As home building has advanced, so has the need for ventilation within the home. Lets take a look at a few reasons you do need a continuously operating exhaust fan, starting with what is it.

What is a continuously operating exhaust fan?

The name is fairly descriptive. It is an exhaust fan that is continuously operating to remove moisture and contaminates from the home and providing multiple air exchanges per day (about one air exchange every 3 hours). To maximize their effectiveness they are typically installed in a central location of the home such as a family or living room. Because they are located in a main living space, they are required to have a very low sound level – less than the sound of your refrigerator.

Why do I need one?

The importance of a continuously operating exhaust fan will depend on the age and construction type of your home. In the paragraph above we talked about air exchanges. This is actually part of the national building code known as ASHRAE 62.2. The purpose of the code is to make sure the air inside the home does not become “stale” and in some cases dangerous. Newer homes are now being built to higher insulation standards, which make the home less susceptible to drafts. This is a good thing. What happens however is that because the house is so tight, it doesn’t allow for fresh air to come in or stale air to get out. This is where the exhaust fans come into play and in some cases a fresh air intake fan. In older homes, they generally have more air leaks and a continuously operating exhaust fan might not be as crucial. A benefit of using an exhaust fan is it puts the control in your hand instead of depending on drafts or other factors to determine the quality of your indoor air.

What should I look for?

As we mentioned, for these fans to be most effective they need to be installed in a centralized room such as a living room or family room. Choosing a fan with a low sound level is important. Exhaust fan sound levels are measured in sones with one sone being about the sound your refrigerator makes. The building code calls for a fan with a sound rating of one sone or below. The lower the sones, the quieter the fan is. A second consideration that is just as important is to make sure the fan has enough airflow. Airflow is measure in CFM or cubic feet per minute. Air King provides an easy calculator along with ASHRAE 62.2 information here. It is important that you have enough ventilation without over powering it and causing a negative pressure in the home (exhausting more air than is coming into the home). A final consideration is that you want an energy efficient fan. Since it will be running continuously, you don’t want it to be a burden on your electric bill. Air King offers a wide range of ENERGY STAR® certified models to fit almost any residential home need.

For more information about Air King exhaust fan solutions as well as continuously operating exhaust fans and ASHRAE 62.2 building codes, visit airkinglimited.com.

Building Energy Efficient Homes

In the home building industry there are constantly changing trends. Items like the hottest new paint color, flooring material, open concept building and so on. We use the classification of trends because they seem to have a limited lifespan until the next hot thing comes in style. What we are more focused on is the direction of the home building industry, which is going to have more staying power. This is where things like building energy efficient homes come into play. Homes continue to be built to higher and higher efficiency levels. Some of this is directed by local and national codes but it is also driven by consumer demand as buyers become more educated on the efficiency of their homes.

More and more of the nation’s leading builders are now making a commitment to building energy efficient homes through the ENERGY STAR® home program. In order to certify a home as ENERGY STAR® there is a stringent list of requirements the builder must meet. This includes almost every aspect of the building process including things that probably won’t surprise you such as windows, doors, insulation, appliances and the HVAC system. What you might not know is that it also includes items such as the ducting, air filtration and ventilation fans of the home. All of these requirements must be confirmed through an independent rater/inspector for the home to receive the final sign off. This is comforting to the homebuyer, as they will have peace of mind that the home is going to perform as advertised.

So why is this a direction and not just a trend. We will get right to it – money. While there are a lot of extra benefits to using less energy (reducing our carbon footprint, using less resources…), the big one from a homeowner’s standpoint is a reduced utility bill. An energy efficient home can reduce the monthly utility bills considerably. According to ENERGY STAR®, a certified home will use up to 30% more energy than a traditionally built home. To put that in perspective, if your utility bills are $300 a month, a certified home would reduce that to $210. That is a saving of $1,080 per year. According to the Redfin the typical US homeowner stays in their home for about 12 years, meaning a savings of about $13,000. Additionally, the home will have better resale value.

Another aspect of building energy efficient homes is there is a movement that is gaining support that in order to qualify for a FHA mortgage, the home must be ENERGY STAR® certified. ENERGY STAR® already has a program called Energy Efficient Mortgages (EEM) that helps homebuyers qualify for purchasing a home as it considers that the monthly cost to maintain the home will be less, allowing more to be used to pay off the loan. While these programs are not yet mandatory, the direction they are going looks as if they will be in the near future. The good news is the major builders are already identifying this and are getting ahead of the game, committing to building certified homes.

To learn more about building trends/directions or other industry news, makes sure to read Air King’s other blog posts. To learn more about Air King’s ENERGY STAR® certified ventilation and fresh air intake solutions and how they can be implemented into building energy efficient homes visit airkinglimited.com

What Fan Do I Need To Cool My Commercial or Industrial Space

A popular question we are asked is how to help cool a commercial or industrial space during the hotter months. To answer that question we need to look at a multiple factors including the size of the space, if the space has any type of air conditioning, what the function of the space is and so more. When choosing a fan for a commercial or industrial space it is important to look for a few simple safety features such as if the fan has a grounded cord (three-prong) and if the grill complies with OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) standards and if the fan has a certification like ETL or UL. Lets look at a few scenarios starting with small commercial spaces and working up to larger industrial spaces.

Cubicles, workstations and other personal locations

We refer to these locations as personal spaces where you are only looking to provide air movement for one or maybe two people. In general this would be at a desk or workstation that is probably located inside an already air-conditioned space. The fan will provide a little extra relief. For this location a fan with a 6” to 9” blade will be beneficial. These types of fans provide the balance of enough airflow to help cool you off but not so much that your papers and everything else is blowing away. Many are going to operate in the 100 CFM to 400 CFM range and are going to have plastic blades.

Small retail spaces, open studios and similar spaces

In these spaces you are generally looking for more generalized cooling rather than cooling individual people. These spaces typically have air conditioning but might need a little extra boost or provide a way to reduce the usage of the air conditioning. Moving up to a 12” to 16” fan will provide the extra airflow you require. These fans are going to operate in the 500 to 1,700 CFM range and are going to have plastic blades. Another consideration is to utilize a fan that has an oscillation feature (fan head moves side to side) for more widespread coverage.

Larger retail spaces, offices, music studios, restaurants and similar spaces

These spaces are generally a little larger and require more airflow. Many will be air-conditioned but still need additional air movement to make them comfortable. This is a category where you might consider transitioning from a commercial grade – plastic blade fan to a metal bladed light industrial fan. A fan with an 18” to 20” blade will provide the needed airflow. For plastic bladed fans, that will be in the range of 2,000 to 2,500 CFM. For metal bladed fans, that bumps up to between 2,500 to 3,700 CFM.

Industrial spaces such as warehouses, shipping docks, gymnasiums and similar

Due to the size of these spaces, they require the largest amount of airflow. Unlike the previous categories, many of these spaces will not have air-conditioning so fans will be the only way to cool them. These spaces are going to require metal bladed fans with higher CFM in the range of 3,500 to 8,500 CFM. An oscillating fan is also a consideration depending on how much area each fan needs to cover.

Additional Considerations

Now that we have gone through some general guidelines for the airflow needed in different scenarios we need to move on to a couple other considerations. The first consideration is space and portability. Fans come in a wide range of mounting options – floor fans, table fans, wall mount fans, ceiling mount fans and so on. Do you have space on the floor or would a fan that is mounted to a wall be helpful? Does the fan need to be moved from room to room so should you look for one with a handle or that is lighter weight? A second consideration is sound. Generally a metal bladed fan is going to have a higher sound level. Sometimes you just need the extra CFM of a metal bladed fan but if you are between a metal bladed fan and a larger plastic bladed fan and you need it to be quieter, the plastic bladed fan might be a better option. While there are more consideration with features and functions, these are generally the two that get the most attention.

To learn more about the Air King line of Industrial and Commercial Air Circulators and how they can help cool your commercial or industrial space, visit airkinglimited.com.

Do I Need a Humidity Sensor For My Bathroom Fan

A popular addition to a bathroom exhaust fan is a humidity sensor but what is it, what is its function and do I really need one? These are all great questions to ask. Lets take them one by one.

What is a Humidity Sensor?

A humidity sensor is a device that detects the humidity level of the room or surrounding area. You might hear them called humidistats or even dehumidistats. When is comes specifically to bathroom exhaust fans they are either located inside the actual fan or mounted on the wall. A wall mounted device will give a better indication of the overall room humidity where a sensor integrated into the fan will have a quicker response to a rise in humidity – especially when the shower is in use. When the sensor detects a rise in humidity it will turn the exhaust fan on until the humidity decreases. There are many factors that can contribute to how long that might take including items such as size of the room, how long the shower was on, how hot the water was, ambient temperature and so on.

What is the Function of a Humidity Sensor?

Removing the humid air is a key factor in increasing your home’s indoor air quality. If you allow the humidity level to stay very high (above 50%) items like mold and mildew will start to grow and if not mitigated can cause issues with rot as well as health concerns. If you notice a lot of mildew in your bathroom, paint that is peeling, or a musty smell, you probably have a humidity issue. A sensor is a built in way to monitor the humidity level of your bathroom and adjust accordingly without you needing to constantly be monitoring it. Sensors are able to be set for a wide range of humidity level usually from about 5% to 80% relative humidity. The lower the humidity level is set for, the longer the fan will run. The ability to set the humidity level allows you to adjust to your specific needs and geographic location. More humid climates will need to set the humidity level higher than less humid areas. A quick note. If the fan is continuously running, it might be because the normal humidity level is too high and air conditioning or some type of dehumidifier needs to be added.

Do I Need a Humidity Sensor?

As we stated above, humidity sensors provide an automated way to ensure the humidity level of your bathroom is where it should be. Sadly, the exhaust fans in many homes are not used properly or even turned on at all. It is recommended that the exhaust fan run for at least 20 minutes after the shower is turned off and that is in the best-case scenario. In more humid situations that time might go up to an hour or more. Having a sensor in place takes the guesswork out of determining if the humidity level of the room is where it needs to be. Considering if you need a sensor can be determined by answering the following questions:

Is my exhaust fan being used properly by everyone utilizing the bathroom? Is it being turned on and allowed to run for the set time needed to fully exhaust the humid air out?

Do I notice signs of mildew, mold, peeling paint that tells me I need more ventilation?

Are there any building codes in my area that require it? California CALGreen requires any exhaust fan in a full bathroom must have a humidity sensor.

Do I have a rental property? Having all the bathroom exhaust fans on a humidity sensor in rentals is a great way to ensure the fans are being utilized properly.

What to Do Next

If you are in the middle of a bathroom remodel or are looking to replace an old exhaust fan, this is a great opportunity to upgrade to one that has an integrated humidity sensor. If you already have an exhaust fan installed, adding a wall mounted sensor switch is a fairly easy way to ensure the humidity level of the room. We do caution that while this is a project most do-it-yourselfers can handle, if you have any questions or concerns to consult a license electrician. We also caution to make sure your exhaust fans can be used with a humidity sensor. All Air King exhaust fans are able to be used with a humidity sensor and in general most exhaust fan can be used with one, but there may be other brands that can not. One other item to consider when choosing an exhaust fan that will be used with a sensor is the sound level. Fans with sensors are most likely going to run for longer periods of time. If you have a really loud fan, this could cause a less than ideal situation. One of the main reasons people do not turn on the exhaust fan is due to the sound level. Look for a fan around 1 sone or less. These are very quiet fans and will probably provide a much better experience. 

For more information regarding bathroom exhaust fans as well as fans with integrated humidity sensors such as the BFC90H, visit airkinglimited.com. To learn more about a humidistat view our video on YouTube.

Asking a question like if you need fresh air can sound a bit foolish as life would be a little hard to live without it. It is also an open-ended question. When we ask if you need fresh air, we are referring to your home. Does your home feel “stuffy”, have odors, mildew or other things growing other than the house plants? If so, it might be because you don’t have a good influx of fresh air.

Fresh air is a vital part of the indoor air quality of homes and can have a direct impact on the heath of the inhabitants. Let’s start by looking at what fresh air is and why you need it. When it comes to indoor air quality of a home, we are going to define fresh air as outside air (filtered or not) that is brought into the home to dilute and replace the stagnant and contaminated air inside. The home is full of contaminates that are produced from daily living. Just breathing inside of a home is going to produce contaminates. Add to that cooking, laundry, cleaning and we can see how the need grows quickly and we haven’t even mentioned if there is someone who is sick inside the home.

Most people would agree that the list of contaminates above are not good to have lingering in the air inside the home for everyone to be breathing in. The next question is what do we do about it? How fresh air is brought into the home will be dependent on many factors. Here are a few:

The age of the home.

Newer homes are being built to more stringent codes that make them more energy efficient. This is a good thing but is also diminishes the amount of natural air coming into the home. That means that you will probably need to have some type of mechanical solution like a fan that brings air in that also works with exhaust fans to take the stale air out. Older homes will have more natural fresh air coming into the home (that is a fancy way of saying drafts).

The climate.

Living in a mild climate means you can have window and doors open more often, allowing air to come in. For homes located in more extreme climates, either cold or hot, natural fresh air might not be as much of an option. Think Arizona in the summer or Minnesota in the winter. In these locations a mechanical solution is almost a must.

Location of the home.

If the home is located where the outdoor air quality is high, then bringing air into the home can be done without any filtration. If the home is located in areas such as cities, high car traffic areas or areas prone to wildfires producing smoke and so forth, having a fresh air solution that also includes some type of air filtration is going to provide the best option. It is possible that in extreme conditions you could actually be bringing in worst air than what is already inside the home. Statistic show that the air inside many homes can be up to 5 times more polluted than outside air, so even in more urban setting and with all the outside contaminates, it will still be beneficial to bring fresh air in.

Air King offers multiple fresh air intake fans that can be sized for most residential applications with models that include the ability to add air filtration, settings for humidity as well as temperature and more. To learn more about these visit the Fresh Air section on the Air King website at airkinglimited.com. To learn more about indoor air quality, make sure to read through our resource of blogs on the topic.

My Exhaust Fan Isn't Working Properly

A question we get on a regular basis is people telling us their exhaust fan isn't working properly. It is a simple enough question but it has a multitude of answers. While it is impossible to list every scenario, we will look at some more common issues that happen with exhaust fans no matter who the manufacturer is. Generally when an exhaust fan isn't working properly it can be classified into one of two categories – mechanical or installation.

Mechanical issues generally occur over time and are affected by a host of factors such as usage, environmental issues (living near salt water), where the unit is located and so forth. Some issues that might seem like they are mechanical could actually be installation issues and we will get into those in the next section. Generally if the fan does not operate right after installation it is most likely an installation issue rather than a mechanical one – not always but most of the time. Some of the common mechanical issues are:

The fan stops operating.

This could be the motor has worn out and has stopped running. You can expect this in older fans that have been operating for a long time. If it is a newer fan, check your warranty as many fans have at least a one-year warranty and some up to a 5 year warranty.

Fan starts making loud noises – “metal” sounds.

More than likely this is because something inside or around the fan has come loose. This could be something in the mounting system, a weld on the housing, the motor mount has come loose and so on. If it is the mounting, simply tightening the mounting screws or re-enforcing the connections to the joist or stud should solve it. If the welds on the housing have come undone this is a little harder to fix and you might be better off replacing the unit – especially if it is an older unit.

Fan starts making loud noises – “rattling” sounds.

This is typically attributed to the fan blade becoming out of balance and can sometime sound like the fan is pulsing. This happens in one of two ways. The first is the blade becomes warped. This can happen if there is excess heat or chemicals. A more common reason for this is the fan blade my be dirty and have a build-up on it causing it to be out of balance. Refer to your unit’s instructions sheets for care and maintenance. The good news is this is usually a fairly simple fix.

Doesn’t seem as if the fan is moving the same amount of air as it used to.

If the amount of air being moved decreases over time or the sound of the fan increases over time, the main culprit is usually a build up in the ducting or a blockage at either the wall or roof cap. Bird’s nests are a common issue. Check to see if there is anything blocking where the fan is exhausting.

If you determine it is not a mechanical issue, then the reason your exhaust fan isn't working could be an installation issue. In general you should notice these issues right away but there are some that will show up a little later. Some of the common installation issues are:

Fan does not turn on.

This is usually a wiring issue where they were not connected properly. Check the wiring diagram in your installation instructions. Another common issue is that sometimes people forget to restore power to the unit either at the circuit board or at the wall switch (don’t worry, it happens to the best of us).

Fan does not operated as expected.

Here is where it gets a little more difficult to pinpoint the issue and it requires a bit of investigative work. First, check to see if the size of the duct collar on the unit matches the duct size you are connecting to. If the duct you are connecting to is smaller, you will loose airflow (CFM) and increase sound (sones). Going from smaller to larger ducting is fine but reducing it can cause some issues. Second, determine how long and how many turns the ducting has before the air leaves the home. The longer the ducting and the more turns it makes, the more static pressure the air has to overcome. This will cause the fan to work harder, reduce the airflow and in many cases increase the sound. A best practice is to keep the ducting as short and straight as possible. Third is what type of ducting is being used. It is always recommended that straight, ridged ducting be used. While flexible ducting is easier to use, it can decrease the performance of the fan – especially if it has a bunch of turns and twist like was mention above. Sometimes these items can’t be avoided. If you can identify them in the planning phase however, you might be able to address them there by using a higher power and quieter fan to compensate for the performance “lose” you might experience.

Fan makes loud or rattling sounds immediately after installation.

We touched on a few of these items above, but if they are happening immediately after installation it probably has to do with how the fan was installed. With the power OFF, check to make sure the fan’s housing is securely fastened to the joist or stud. Next check to see if the fan blade is out of balance or is hitting the housing as it spins (you can spin it with your hand). Check the duct collar and connections to make sure they are all secure. Check the motor mount. Many fans have what is called a venturi or a venturi plate that holds the motor in place within the housing. If this is not installed properly or securely it might rattle or cause the fan to be out of balance.

Identifying why your exhaust fan isn't working properly can sometimes be a tricky but utilizing the suggestion we laid out in this post will hopefully help. For more information about exhaust fans, visit airkinglimited.com. If you are looking for a specific Air King model, utilize the search feature or access instruction and user manuals here.

Can I Use a Duct Reducer With My Exhaust Fan?

You decide it is finally time to replace your old exhaust fan in your bathroom. You go out and buy the new model and are excited to get it installed. One issue. When you take out the old one you notice that the duct size is different – now what? This is a common issue when replacing exhaust fans. Codes have changed over the years and where 3” duct might have been common, it is now 4” duct. Many codes and builders across the USA are even going up to 6” duct as standard. So what do you do if you have smaller size ducting in your home than the duct coming from your exhaust fan?

A common solution is to use a duct reducer. This attaches to the duct collar coming off the exhaust fan and reduces the duct size down. For instance, if your fan has a 6” duct collar but your ducting is 4”, you can use a 6” to 4” reducer. Seems simple and easy – right. Well, unfortunately it is not that simple. Many fans are not designed to be used with a duct reducer. By reducing the ducting you are creating more resistance and not allowing the air to flow as freely as it was designed to do. This will cause the amount of air you can move to be reduce and in many cases will increase the sound level of the fan. It will also make the fan work harder and possibly reduce the lifespan. This falls into the category of if it is your only option other than replacing all of the ducting and the wall or roof cap, then you might consider it.

A better option is to try and get ahead of the game so to speak. When researching a replacement for your fan, try to determine what size ducting you already have in place. There are a few ways you can do this.

1. Find the model number of the fan you are replacing and do a search online to find out the duct size. This is generally accurate but you do need to keep in mind that the person who installed it could have also used a duct reducer. 

2. When you remove the old fan you can see what size duct was used and if a reducer is in place. The issue with this is we know most people like to have the new fan on hand before taking the old one out.

3. If you have access to the fan from above (attic) you can measure the size of the existing ducting.

What about if the ducting in my home is bigger than the ducting from the exhaust fan? In almost all situations going form smaller to larger ducting will not create any issues. You will need to have an adapter installed to properly connect the smaller ducting to the larger but you shouldn’t see any increase in sound or decrease in airflow.

To learn more about exhaust fans and ventilation visit airkinglimited.com or consult a professional in your area.

Anatomy of Kitchen Range Hoods

Kitchen Range Hoods are a critical component in maintaining the indoor air quality of our homes. The kitchen is one of the leading sources of contaminates in our homes and utilizing a range hood decreases these contaminates and makes our homes healthier to live in. So how do kitchen range hoods work?

Having an understanding of how range hoods work and what they are providing is an important component to making sure they are utilized correctly. Range hoods have a two-function purpose. The first is to provide protection to the cabinets above the cooking area. Almost all cabinets are made out of wood so to protect them if there is a flare up on the cooktop is important. Over the years range hoods have greatly advanced to more than just basic protection. They have become part of an indoor air quality solution. The basic principle of kitchen range hood is to take the “bad” air being generated during the cooking process and move it (exhaust it) out or filter it.

There are two types of methods a range hood uses to better the indoor air quality. The first is to utilize an odor filter and recirculate the air back into the room. This type of range hood does not require ducting. While this will provide some improvement to the indoor air quality of the kitchen, they really are not very effective as the filters used only catch a small percentage of the contaminates you really want to remove from the living space. This type falls into the “better than nothing” category. A much better way is to have the air exhaust to the outside. These hoods still have some type of grease filter that prevents grease from building up on the hood’s motor/blower as well as in the ducting. The big benefit is all of the contaminates the hood captures will be exhausted to the outdoors and away from the living area. 

Most kitchen range hoods also have some type of lighting feature to them. These might be LED, incandescent or even halogen. When looking for a range hood, take note of the light both from an efficiency standpoint as well as the location. Generally a hood with the light at the front will provide better overall coverage of the cooking surface.

The next part of the range hoods is the duct collar for hoods that are being exhausted to the outdoors. Hoods that are recirculating the air back into the kitchen typically have an exhaust vent build into the hood itself. Hoods that are exhausting to the outdoors will have some type of duct collar either built into the hood or one that attaches to the hood. Common sizes for these collars are 3.25” x 10” or round. Round duct collars range from 5” to 10” and larger. Many of the duct collars are going to also incorporate a backdraft damper that prevents or at least lessens the amount of air coming back into the home through the ducting. A quick note – if you feel drafts coming from your range hood, you might want to upgrade your backdraft damper. Air travels through the ducting from the range hood to either a wall cap or a roof cap. While these components are not necessarily part of the fan, they are integral components that are required. Wall and roof caps vary in function, features and costs. Two common features are bird screens that prevent birds from building nests in the ducting (yes, it does happen and it is more common than you think) and backdraft dampers. Backdraft dampers on the wall or roof cap provide an extra layer in addition to the one on the range hood to prevent backdrafts.

These are the main components of kitchen range hoods. In addition some fans will have extra features like continuous operation, thermostats that turn the unit on or off and more. For more information of the range hoods available through Air King visit airkinglimited.com

Anatomy of Exhaust Fans

Exhaust fans play a pivotal roll in maintaining the indoor air quality of our homes. Utilizing them decreases contaminates, reduces moisture and makes our homes healthier to live in. So how do exhaust fans work?

Having an understanding of how exhaust fans or as they are sometimes called – bath fans work is an important component to making sure they are utilized correctly. The basic principle of an exhaust fan is to take the “bad” air inside your living space and move it (exhaust it) out. That air is then replaced with fresh air. It is a fairly simple concept.

The exhaust fan’s main component is a blower of some type. Lower end units will utilize a fan blade that looks similar to a typical portable fan. Higher end units will utilize a blower wheel or as some people refer to it, a squirrel cage. Blower wheels generally are able to produce more ventilation at a quieter sound level. In either case the wheel or blades turn and generate airflow that is directed through the fan’s duct collar.

The next part of the exhaust fan is the duct collar. Exhaust fans must be ducted to the outdoors and run through ducting in the home to either a wall cap or a roof cap. While these components are not necessarily part of the fan, they are integral components that are required. The duct collar of the fan is connected to the ducting from the home. Ducting can range from 3 inches to 6 inches in typical residential homes. More and more new construction is moving to 6 inch ducting as it provides better airflow with less resistance. It is important to match the ducting size to the size of the exhaust fan. For instance if you have 4 inch ducting but have a 6 inch ducted exhaust fan you will need to reduce the ducting down to fit. This will make the fan work harder, reduce the airflow and increase the sound level.

A second part of the duct collar is the backdraft damper. This is a flap that closes to prevent drafts from coming back into the home. Backdraft dampers are usually either gravity closing or spring loaded. The way they work is when the fan is operating and blowing air out of the collar the force of the air opens the damper. Once the unit is shut off the damper will either “fall” down on gravity type dampers or close with spring-loaded dampers, sealing off the ducting.

The next component of an exhaust fan is the housing. The housing holds everything together and is what is installed into the ceiling. Housings come in many different sizes and are installed in different ways. Common installations include hanger bars that slide into a channel on the housing and then extend out to connect to the ceiling joists. A second mounting type is mounting tabs. These are tabs on the housing that install directly to the ceiling joist. Other mounting types are ones such as with the Air King BFQ series that have a snap-in bracket.

So far all the components we discussed are ones you won’t see once the fan is installed. The one that you will see is the grill. Like housings, grills come in all different sizes and shapes. The grill has a few functions. First is to cover up and protect all the inter workings of the fan. Second is to be aesthetically pleasing - no one wants an ugly hole in their ceiling. Lastly the grill provides a balance of décor and function as it needs to be able to allow enough air to come into the fan without restricting that air.

These are the main components of an exhaust fan. In addition some fans will have extra features like a light, heater function, humidity sensor, motion sensor and more. For more information about the exhaust fans available through Air King visit airkinglimited.com.